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TDS for Shrimp Tanks: Complete Guide to Total Dissolved Solids in 2025

Introduction

Total dissolved solids (TDS) is a very interesting and misunderstood water parameter in shrimp keeping. For example, you test your shrimp tank and get a TDS reading of 350 ppm. Is this good or bad? The answer depends on information most guides never explain.

TDS can be a very useful measurement in many shrimp keeping situations – it can also be entirely misleading and cause chaos for shrimp keepers. Let’s dive into the science behind TDS – what it’s measuring, why certain ranges are recommended for a shrimp species, and when TDS measurements are useful. We’ll also learn about the relationship between TDS and conductivity - a more common measurement type for European shrimp keepers.

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What Does TDS Actually Measure?

Unsurprisingly, TDS measures dissolved solids, including salts, nutrients, and toxins and gives us an estimated concentration in parts per million (ppm). Scientifically speaking, it measures the concentration of charged particles(ions like calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), sodium (Na+), sulfur (S2-), chloride (Cl-), carbonate (CO32-), etc.) in the water.

What Affects TDS In A Shrimp Tank?

The following increases TDS:

  • Fertilizer
  • Minerals (remineralizer, leaching from rocks)
  • Pollutants (chemicals from non-aquarium-safe décor)
  • Evaporation
  • Dechlorinator
  • Decomposing Food

The following decreases TDS:

  • Water Changes (with water that has lower TDS)
  • Plant Growth (nutrient absorption)
  • Active Substrates (depletes KH)

When Is TDS Useful?

TDS is useful in two situations:
  1. When we have multiple measurements over time
  2. When we know a lot about our water

How To Use Multiple TDS Measurements

A single TDS measurement is typically useless. That being said, it becomes useful with multiple measurements over time because it gives us a snapshot of how our water quality is changing. For example, if we see a sudden increase in TDS compared to a previous measurement, then we know that something has entered the water recently. Maybe minerals are leaching from a rock, or maybe it’s from the fertilizer we added the other day. Likewise, if we know the average TDS of our tap water and we suddenly see a large increase in TDS one day, then it indicates the water has changed in some way. This might be a seasonal change at the water treatment plant during a rainy season that is harmless, or it could be as bad as a chemical spill leaching into the pipes. The more data points we have, the better we can understand when to worry about elevated TDS.

How To Incorporate TDS With Other Water Parameters

Now, let’s examine how more information helps us analyze TDS. That starts by understanding how other parameters like GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness) affect it. GH and KH can be measured in either drops of hardness (dGH/dKH) or ppm (here’s a conversion calculator). In ppm, they can be used to identify a large portion of the TDS value of our tank. For example, let’s say we have a tank with 107 ppm of GH (6 dGH) and 54 ppm of KH (3 dKH), along with a TDS of 200 ppm. By adding up the GH and KH values, we see that 161 ppm (107 + 54 ppm) of the TDS comes from our GH and KH. If we also know that we have 15 ppm of nitrates in the shrimp tank, then we account for 176 ppm and only have 24 ppm coming from unknown sources. Considering the sources are often harmless or beneficial nutrients for plants (sodium, phosphate, etc.), this would be considered pretty healthy water for a shrimp tank. If we are running a high-tech planted tank and measuring nutrient levels like phosphate, then we may be able to reduce this unknown amount of TDS even further.
This bar chart illustrates how to understand what amount of TDS is unknown by incorporating GH and KH

The most controlled setting possible for shrimp keepers is to use purified water with a remineralizer (a product that increases GH and sometimes KH). RO/DI water may start with 5 ppm of TDS – a very small amount of unknown substance that is typically harmless -which we then increase by adding enough remineralizer to get the desired GH/KH range. In this example, let’s say we remineralize to 71 ppm of GH (4 dGH) and 0 KH for a Blue bolt Caridina shrimp tank. This means we would expect a TDS of around 76 ppm after remineralization, including the initial TDS of the RO/DI water. We will never quite see the TDS calculated from adding together GH/KH because remineralizers always have additional salts to balance them out, which increases the TDS.

A chart showing the TDS ranges of different types of water

Image Description - A comparison of the TDS ranges of different types of water. RO stands for Reverse Osmosis. RO/DI water stands for Reverse Osmosis + Deionization for additional purification.

Each remineralizer has a slightly different blend of salts so what’s important is knowing what TDS our particular remineralizer reaches. In this case, our remineralizer raises the TDS to 90 ppm at 4 dGH. Since we know that, we can now use a TDS meter during water changes to quickly and easily measure whether we’ve remineralized new water to the right GH, rather than using the slightly less convenient liquid test kits. The first time using a new remineralizer does require testing GH/KH, but a TDS meter may be used every time after that. The benefit of TDS is the speed and ease with which we can get information.

Now, let’s compare that experience to measuring TDS in a shrimp tank with tap water. Out of this hypothetical tap, the water has 71 ppm of GH and 0 ppm KH - just like the remineralized water from the previous example. The difference is that the total TDS is 450 ppm, meaning there’s around 375 ppm of TDS that’s unaccounted for. That could consist entirely of toxins like copper or nitrates, or it could be all sodium and relatively harmless. That’s why a single TDS measurement does not tell us any useful information about how healthy tap water is but the more we know about our water, the better we can analyze its quality.

Common Uses for TDS Measurements

  • Monitor water quality changes over time
  • Detect leaching
  • Identify changes in tap water (seasonal variations, contamination)
  • Verifying remineralizer levels
  • Assessing water purity in combination with other parameters
  • Fertilization monitoring
  • Equipment troubleshooting (verifying RO filters work)
  • Evaporation compensation (calculating amount of pure water vs remineralized water to top off tank with)

Why Are Certain TDS Ranges Recommended For A Species?

We can also understand how the recommended TDS ranges for different shrimp species are calculated. Let’s take the recommended parameters for Neocaridina as an example:

NeocaridinappmdH
Recommended GH107-1796-10
Recommended KH36-1432-8


Commonly, the recommended TDS range for Neocaridina is 200-300 ppm. The combined minimum values of GH and KH give us 143 ppm, while the combined maximum values give us 322 ppm. As we mentioned before, the salts that increase GH and KH always involve other solids that increase TDS, so even the lowest levels of the recommended GH/KH ranges will be higher than 143 ppm and typically close to the 200 ppm of TDS, which explains the low end of the recommended range.

As for the high end, 10 dGH and 8 dKH (322 ppm total) are relatively rare because most natural mineral sources for tap water and most commercial products increase GH/KH by a ratio of 2:1. This means that the 10 dGH upper limit tends to limit KH to around 5 dKH, giving us a combined 269 ppm. When accounting for the additional TDS of the salts required to achieve these GH/KH values, we arrive close to 300 ppm, which explains the upper limit of the recommended range.

These same calculations can be done with other shrimp species to understand their recommended TDS ranges.

Again, surpassing this upper TDS limit is not necessarily a bad thing but the risk depends on the shrimp species. Hardier species like Neocaridina are not very sensitive to TDS, so they are often kept at 400-500 ppm without issue – assuming there are no dangerous levels of pollutants in the water, which is difficult to determine with tap water. With remineralized RO/DI water guaranteed to have no pollutants, we’ve kept Neocaridina at 600+ ppm (30+ dGH) without issue because the water is healthy and the mineral ratios are balanced.

On the other hand, more sensitive species and breeds of Caridina shrimp are affected by TDS outside of the range they are bred in. They can adapt to higher ranges assuming the water is healthy (right mineral ratios, low nitrates, etc.) but it does seem to be less likely. Newer breeds of Caridina like Blue BOAs are especially sensitive to TDS. Our hypothesis is that this sensitivity is a result of inbreeding depression, which should improve over time as breeders work to reduce inbreeding.

How To Measure TDS At Home

TDS is relatively easy to measure in shrimp tanks at home – you just need a TDS meter. The technology is simple so there are many mass-produced models for $10-15 that work well for hobbyist purposes. If you want to use the same ones we use for Shrimply Explained tanks and support us in the process, then check out this TDS meter available on Amazon. These meters are very easy to maintain. Unlike pH meters, there aren’t disposable electrodes that go bad over time. Instead, we just need to brush the metal electrode tips every so often to clean off any debris that dries on them. If we don’t clean off the debris, then we occasionally may see artificially low TDS values because the debris blocks the signal.

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How TDS Meters Work (Advanced)

TDS meters are essentially voltmeters, if you’re familiar with electronics. They compare two points to measure how well a material carries electricity – AKA conductivity. How well water conducts electricity is determined by how many charged particles (ions like Ca2+) are in the water. Freshwater like what we have in our shrimp tank is relatively low TDS (0-1,000 ppm) because it does not have many ions, at least compared to something like saltwater ( >35,000 ppm). Perfectly pure water has a TDS of 0 ppm, while most RO/DI (filtered) water is around 5-10 ppm due to imperfect filtration.
How TDS Meters Work
How TDS Meters Work With Lower Conductivity

How TDS and Conductivity Differ (Advanced)

TDS is derived from conductivity values. Conductivity is typically measured in milliSiemens or microSiemens per centimeter (mS/cm or uS/cm), which then gets converted electronically to a TDS value in ppm (equation: conductivity value * X conv. factor = TDS). A problem often arises because there is no set conversion factor between conductivity and TDS. Specifically, an accurate conversion factor varies depending on the types of dissolved solids in the water, as each ion (Ca2+, Mg2+, etc.) changes the conductivity in different ways. For example, water with only calcium carbonate dissolved in it will have a different conductivity value than water with the same amount of magnesium carbonate dissolved in it. If you search “conductivity to TDS conversion factor”, you’ll get a variety of different answers ranging from 0.55 to 0.8 – a huge range! The standard conversion factor for freshwater is generally around 0.64-0.67 but we don’t know what conversion most manufacturers use for their TDS meters, which may account for large variations in TDS readings between different meters.

Conclusion

From monitoring changes in water quality to quickly checking if we've added enough remineralizer, TDS can be a very useful tool to ensure the health of our shrimp tanks. The key is understanding that TDS is only as meaningful as the context we provide it. A reading of 350 ppm could indicate perfectly healthy water in a remineralized RO/DI setup, or it could be a warning sign in tap water with unknown dissolved substances.

Remember the two golden rules: TDS is most valuable when tracked over time, and it becomes exponentially more useful the more we know about our water's composition. Whether you're troubleshooting sudden changes, streamlining your remineralization process, or simply wanting to better understand your shrimp's environment, a $15 TDS meter paired with knowledge of your GH and KH values puts you ahead of most shrimp keepers.

The biggest mistake we see is shrimp keepers panicking over TDS readings without considering what's actually dissolved in their water. Don't let a number dictate your actions – let your understanding of that number guide your decisions. Your shrimp will thank you for it.

Pssst... Want to learn everything you need to know to have happy and healthy freshwater shrimp?  We've got you covered with clear, concise, and fun information in every lesson of The Shrimp School! 

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